SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK
VIRGINIA
AN OVERVIEW
A park for every season, suited to every traveler’s plans, Shenandoah National Park is a must visit if you live in D.C., or even if you visit often enough to need a break from the city for a daytrip or weekend getaway. We go often and take friends when they come from out of town. Every time we’ve visited SNP, the park offers a different experience, and there is so much to do depending on your time, plan, and preference.
In the summer, the deer and black bears are everywhere, the stars are out and bright, and the days are long. In the fall, the foliage and colors are out of this world - I highly recommend driving through in late October, early November and doing a hike through the woods. In the winter the waterfalls are enormous crystals lining the road and the mountains are black and white. In the spring, wildflowers bloom and the waterfalls start to gush with new life.
The main road through the park, the Skyline Drive, traverses the Appalachian mountain range, zigzagging past several spacious overlooks, putting yourself thousands of feet above the valleys below. It cuts right through the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains, aptly named as you’ll come to realize as they do glow in all shades of blue as the morning goes by.
The entire Skyline Drive is a leisurely 105 miles with 75 overlooks, which are great places to stop and stare at the landscape with a snack or your picnic. If you plan on driving the entire road from end to end, budget at least 3 hours, that is if you don’t plan to stop frequently.
Whether you’re here for a long day of exploring, an overnight adventure (camping or glamping), or are looking for a scenic drive on the way to Charlottesville (or somewhere else in the area), you’ll leave SNP wanting to visit again.
We’ve lived in Washington, D.C. for over 7 years now, and SNP has become a backyard for us. Any time of year (but fall is my favorite) the two-hour drive is easy and worthwhile. And yes, it is mostly pet-friendly, so bring your dog, but plan accordingly.
A Guide
To each their own in this park - it is tailored to short or long visits alike. You can see it fully while barely getting out of your car or you can wander and get lost in the thick forests atop the blue ridge mountains.
Overlooks
There are 75 total overlooks along the Skyline Drive, and I’ve included my favorites below. If you’re chasing light, make sure to refer to the east and west-facing lists, depending on what you’re after. The overlooks are a perfect place to take a break and stretch your legs, grab a photo and take in the sights, or open that lunch box and have a snack and a nap. Bring your picnic, some chairs, a guitar, the dog, or whatever gets you through the night.
For sunrise, you need to visit an east-facing overlook for the best light. Some of my favorites are Tunnel, Buck Hollow, Thorofare, and Hazel Mountain. For sunset, you need to visit a west-facing overlook for the best light. Some of my favorites are Crescent Rocks, Spitler Knoll, and The Point. Others include:
East Facing Overlooks
Tunnel (mi 32.5)
Buck Hollow (mi 32.8)
Hazel Mountain (mi 33)
Pinnacles (mi 35)
Hemlock Springs (mi 40)
Thorofare Mountain (mi 40.5)
Old Rag View (mi 46.5)
Loft Mountain (mi 74.5)
West Facing Overlooks
Jewell Hollow (mi 36.5)
Stony Man (mi 38.5)
Timber Hollow (mi 43)
Crescent Rock (mi 44)
Spitler Knoll (mi 48)
Franklin Cliffs (mi 49)
Tanners Ridge (mi 51.5)
The Point (mi 55.5)
Baldface Mountain (mi 61)
Swift Run (mi 67)
RipRap (mi 91.5)
Crimora Lake (mi 92.5)
Turk Mountain (mi 94)
hiking
Walking through the park’s miles of trails is the most rewarding way to feel disconnected and fully immersed in nature, even when so close to the city. Whether you’re looking for the perfect light atop a peak, wanting to walk through the thick forest, or searching for waterfalls, Shenandoah has it all. Here are some of my favorite trails in the park, and more than enough for a long weekend.
Also, note that if you bring your pet, some trails do not allow your buddy to tag along. Click on this link for the full list from the NPS.
Rose River Trail
Length: 3.5 miles
Trailhead: Fisher’s Gap Overlook
The perfect hike for endless walks along waterfalls and streams, this trail is not too crowded in certain sections, and has a great variety of landscapes for a good time. One of my most memorable experiences in Shenandoah was doing this hike on a dreary, rainy fall day. The colors were extraordinary throughout the entire loop.
Park at Fisher’s Gap and head down to the falls. You can choose whether to go clockwise down the horse trail, or counterclockwise down the fire road. Either way, make sure to do the entire loop. It’ll be long, but worthwhile.
Stony Man
Length: 1.5 miles
Trailhead: Outside the Skyland Resort (38°35'35.6"N 78°22'33.6"W)
One of the most recognizable hikes in Shenandoah, this trail is perfect for both sunrise and sunset, offering great views over the mountains and the skyline drive below. The easiest way to do this hike is from the Stony Man Parking right outside the Skyland Resort.
It can get quite crowded here due to the great views and short trail (it's about 20-30 minutes to the top) so be prepared to share this beautiful view.
Lower Hawksbill Mountain
Length: 1.5 miles
Trailhead: Lower Hawksbill Gap
This is my favorite trail for sunset, and I do this one often since it is not too long and heading back in the dark isn’t too difficult. And the views of the colorful with the jagged rock are impressive. There are several ways to hike to the top of Hawksbill, but I prefer the Lower Hawksbill trail for some reason over Upper Hawksbill. It can be done as an out and back on either trail, or as a long loop that requires you to walk along Skyline Drive back to the car. Note that pets are allowed, which is why we do it so frequently. Be prepared to add time to the summit to watch the sunset and eat a snack, and make sure to be ready to hike back down in the dark.
Big Meadows
Length: n/a
Trailhead: Big Meadows Wayside (both sides of Skyline Drive)
For any visit, I always budget at least an hour for Big Meadows. It is one of the coolest parts of the park. Not so much a hike as a pleasant, aimless walk through endless fields of flora and scattered rocks, this is a perfect place to wander and take a break. I’ve seen deer and bears lurking around - keep your distance and mind your business, but be weary.
There is an official parking lot on your left after passing the visitor center (if coming from the north). Alternatively, many cars (mine included) park along the side of the road next to the Big Meadows sign. If everything is packed, you can always park at the Wayside building across the street. Also, this is a great spot to come and watch the stars at night.
Mary’s Rock
Length: 2.5 miles
Trailhead: Meadow Spring Parking Area
Whether you come from the north approach or the south approach (depends, because you link up with the Appalachian Trail), this hike is worthwhile for great west-facing views and perfect for golden hour in the morning or afternoon. The main trailheads are Thornton Gap, Panorama Parking Area for the north entrance, and Meadow Spring parking area, for the south entrance, my personal favorite.
Other Great Hikes
Old Rag Mountain
While I’ve never had the opportunity to do it, timewise and dog-wise, this is always regarded as the best hike in Shenandoah and is a full day affair with amazing views (I’ve been told from lots of friends).
Whiteoak Canyon Falls
Same as above, this is the top hike in Shenandoah on my list. You can do this as a short hike from bottom up to Lower Whiteoak Falls starting outside the park, from top down to the Upper Falls from Skyline Drive, or a full-day combo integrating Cedar Run.
Dark Hollow Falls
A more heavily trafficked hike, suitable for kids, ending in refreshing and iconic waterfalls.
Blackrock Mountain
Aptly named, this trail ends with a graveyard full of massive boulders.
Bearfence Mountain Trail
A short hike with limited rock scrambling for excellent 360 views of the park.
The Basics
LODGING
The first thing to consider also depends on the purpose of the visit. Are you planning on spending the night? Are you fleeing the city and looking for a daytrip? Or are you driving through because, why not? … but, always take the long way home.
If you want to make the most of SNP, you can spend a more comfortable night in one of the two lodges - Big Meadows (Mile 51) or Skyland (Mile 41.7) - both of which are excellent choices. You can glamp more independently at Lewis Mountain Cabins (Mile 57.5) but read up on what you need to bring with you first. Or you can leave no trace after pitching your campsite in the middle of the wilderness, somewhere along the Appalachian Trail - check for more info below.
Lodges/Cabins: https://www.nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/lodging.htm
Campsites: https://www.nps.gov/shen/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm
Remember these lodging options and many facilities close between December and March for the long winter months, but the park does stay open, weather permitting.
SEASONS
Summer. The most popular time of year is the summer. The days are long, the weather is inviting you to seek adventure and perhaps a refreshing swim in a waterfall, and wildlife is rampant throughout the park. Chances are you’ll get traffic because black bears tend to hold up the single-lane Skyland Drive, so it’s likely you will see some bears, and almost guaranteed that you’ll spot deer. Don’t forget to bring lots of water, snacks, sunscreen, and bugspray. And check for ticks every time you’re heading back to your car or into your lodge.
Fall. This is my favorite time to visit, so half of me is biased here, but the other half wants you to see why. Any top 10 list of the best parks in the U.S. for fall foliage should have SNP right up there, and for good reason. The crowds have not died down, but the weather has cooled significantly (always expect about 10-15 degrees less than the city), and the foliage is a symphony of warm colors. Chances are you’ll get moodier skies, foggy roads, and comfortable hikes, but the rustle of leaves all around is memorable. And on the way back to D.C. (if that’s homebase) there are plenty of farmer’s markets with the best apples you’ve ever tasted. Peak foliage in the park generally is between mid-October through the first week of November.
Winter. With bare trees lining the peaks and massive icicles dripping down the mountainside of the Skyline Drive, winter provides a unique perspective of the park. Not to mention empty roads and sounds of silence abound. And sometimes a quick drive through SNP during this season is more than enough (yes, it does get very cold). The possibility that portions of, or the entire, Skyland Drive may be closed increases due to snow, ice, or fallen trees, so always check the SNP website for road closures before heading over. But if the roads close, there are hikes that start outside the park that take you to some great views or waterfalls, such as Old Rag and White Oak Canyon.
Spring. New blooms are everywhere. Wildflowers, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, and too many more bright colors. And the lush green races back along the roads and valleys. Similar to the fall, the crowds are lighter, and the weather is refreshing - all you need is a light jacket. If you’re heading over in early spring, check the weather report for road closures just in case, especially around March.
CHOOSING YOUR ENTRANCE
SNP is broken up into three parts, or districts, and there are four entrances into Skyline Drive. From north to south, Front Royal Gap, Thornton Gap, Swift Run Gap, and Rockfish Gap. From D.C., depending on the traffic on i66, it takes 1.5 to 2 hours driving, except to Rockfish Gap, but that’s an easy 30 minutes from Charlottesville if that’s your base.
The North District, accessed through the northmost entrance from Front Royal Gap, is at lower elevations and generally the quietest. It is the section I least have visited, but I have driven through before because the apple donuts in Front Royal at the Apple House in the fall are amazing, as are all the local sauces and jams all year long.
The Central District, bounded by two entrances, Thornton Gap to its north, and Swift Run to its south, is the most heavily trafficked, having some of the best overlook views, excellent hikes, and most lodging options. Not to mention the large expanse of Big Meadows.
The South District has more west-facing overlooks than east and has plenty of worthy hikes. The easiest way to access the South is from Charlottesville. So, if you’re leaving Charlottesville back to D.C., jump on the Skyline Drive for a few hours and take in the fresh air. This is also where the Blue Ridge Parkway and Shenandoah meet, right outside the city of Afton. Remember, the Parkway is free, but Skyline Drive will cost you because it is a National Park.
My Trips
Sometimes I visit this park for a few hours, sometimes for the whole day, and other times, I make a weekend out of it. Since the park is limited to a single road running north and south over the top ridge, a visit can be as short as a simple drive through one of the sections, with a few stops here and there.
Driving Through
Some people aren’t as outdoorsy, but still want a taste of nature. The views from many of Shenandoah’s overlooks are enough to satisfy the crave and I’ve listed my favorites up top. Most times I visit Charlottesville I just drive in for a few hours before heading to D.C. and find it immensely satisfying even though it was brief.
So instead of engaging the trails and sweating through the park’s endless hikes, just drive through Skyline Drive, making frequent stops at the overlooks, and take your sweet time. The speed limit is 35mph, so you have no choice but to drive slowly.
daytripper
On days where I want to come back home to sleep but still have a full day, I leave in the middle of the night, about 2-3 hours before sunrise and head west. The earlier you leave, the better, so you can avoid traffic and get some morning light in the park. With just one full day at your disposal, I recommend the Central District of SNP, starting at Thornton Gap. Also, getting there for sunrise is worth it. Yes, waking up can be exhausting, but watching the sky go from black to blue to pink and purple until finally the sun rises from behind the mountains will make you glad you set your alarm and didn’t ignore it. Take a nap in your car or doze off watching the clouds go by after a while you have some breakfast.
On a typical day trip, I try to get to the park before sunrise, starting at Stony Man if the weather looks good or any east-facing overlook if it’s overcast. Then, I drive around looking for great views from the overlooks before taking a break at Big Meadows. Finally, before heading back home, I’ll choose one more medium to longer hike to end the day, and maybe catch sunset from the end of the trail. Or, alternatively, I’ll do a hike and then catch the sunset from a west-facing overlook.
Weekend Warrior
Depending on when I can head out, whether it's Friday after work, or Saturday morning, with a night in the park, your visiting options increase dramatically. It all depends on how many nights you want to go, or how many nights you can go. Also, Charlottesville is a charming and historic town, home to many weddings, so you may have a Saturday event to get to, want to indulge your inner history buff, or are looking for respite in the hundreds of vineyards, so a quick overnight visit is all you can get.
Since you’re coming for a weekend, you don’t need to lose sleep over getting here early since you’ll have the next morning to roll out of bed and watch the sunrise. And you’ll get the chance to see the night sky at Big Meadows with more stars than you’ll ever see under the city’s glow. Make sure to plan around sunrises and sunsets on the days you’re there so you can maximize the light around the park. If possible, take your own food, but leave no trace as the park is packed with bears, deer, and birds.