Acadia National Park
Maine
AN OVERVIEW
Located at the northern edges of the east coast, at the foot of the Atlantic Ocean, Acadia National Park is a small island haven ready for you to park and explore. This inviting national park is curiously integrated into Mt. Desert Island without proper borders, so you won’t be going through a main gate to access the park, but you’ll know you’re there once you cross the bridge over the Mt. Desert Narrows across Thompson Island. At times, while in the park, you may feel like you’re heading in the wrong direction as you keep driving through civilization, but the quaint towns actually add to the charm, and offer the perfect place for a break from your adventure. Here’s a good interactive map to explain, compliments of Acadia Magic.
In my opinion, best visited during the fall, Acadia should be on any leaf-peepers’ radar. And if you decide to chase leaves elsewhere, it still makes for a great summer getaway with its ample sunshine and beautiful beaches - just don’t expect Caribbean summer days this far north.
Once you’re settled and ready to explore, Park Loop Road will be the start of your adventure. It is a one-way main road that circles through the highlights of Acadia, offering a scenic journey through this wondrous park. If you’re coming in the fall, this is where you’ll find yourself encountering enough color to settle any craving you’ve built up over the years. In addition to the well-maintained road system in the park, there are several carriage roads where you’ll see lots of foot traffic (because cars are not allowed on these narrow paths) and likely find yourself playing with leaves, if you’re into that, of course.
Besides the gorgeous maples and birch trees flooded with bright colors, there are several ponds and lakes perfect for steady reflections and afternoon picnics, a rocky coastline ready to turn bright orange against the sun’s warmth, and views across the ocean that span for thousands of miles across the Atlantic.
This park has it all - ocean, lakes, beaches, mountains, and forests.
A Guide
Whether you’re visiting for a quick weekend or extended period, there are several locations in and around the park worth visiting. You can simply drive around, park and explore wherever your eyes pull you, opt for a short hike or create your own full-day path through the forests, rent bikes in several locations, or hire a kayak and drift through the gentle waters. The small towns of Bar Harbor, Bass Harbor, and Southwest Harbor offer boutique shops, great food, (yes, lobster everywhere), and plenty of places to get the essentials you need if you’re renting a place for a few nights. I’ve outlined some of the main attractions for a perfect getaway in Acadia, so combine them any way you can, and make the most out of this place. I guarantee it will leave you wanting to return one day.
Park Loop Road
This scenic drive circles the entire main part of the park on Mt. Desert Island’s eastern end near Bar Harbor. This road provides a channel to all the hotspots on the island and almost anywhere you decide to venture, you will need to use the road to get there. No matter, because you’ll find yourself driving down this road and stopping along its pull-outs several times throughout the day. Keep in mind it is a one-way road, though, so drive slow and make sure to park responsibly as the traffic increases as the day passes by.
Jordan Pond
A great place to watch the sunrise or sunset on a calm day, this is the most well-known lake in the park. Not only because of the beauty of the lake, but because it kind of serves as ground zero to exploring the park - you will find that many of your plans probably originate here. It also has an abundance of parking and a delicious restaurant - the Jordan Pond House Restaurant - where you can get your beer and lobster fill at the end of a day of adventure. If you do decide to visit the restaurant, you should plan to make a reservation or call in advance of arriving because it can get slammed.
From the main parking lot, which, while very large, can fill up on a nice day, you can walk over to the foot of the pond in no time. Across the lake, from the southern end, you will see the famous Bubbles and glimpse their reflection on the soft, clear water.
Also, expect an abundance of wildlife singing and swimming around the area. The birds were especially calm around us when we got up close for a photo op.
As the day goes on, more and more people arrive here to enjoy the lake and start their day, whether it be for a hike, a nature walk, kayaking, or just lounging by the restaurant.
If you aren’t ready for a long day or hiking, or if it’s your first day in the park, a slow walk around the entire lake will be very soothing and will provide many different views of trees and boulders reflecting off the calm water, unless you get a windy day.
Jesup Path
Among the most popular and photogenic areas in Acadia, particularly in the fall, the Jesup Path runs along a boardwalk through a forest of birch trees and is simply divine. The easiest way to find it is to drive to the Sieur de Monts Nature Center and head into the forest until you come across the fabled boardwalk. Keep in mind that this trail is a one-way with several branches intersecting the main path, so unless you’re planning to find a way to loop around and walk back through another trail or along Park Loop Road, stick to the boardwalk.
Make sure to walk slowly, bring a wide angle lens if you have it because the trees are tall and tight all around you. But stick to the path because it can get very boggy around the boardwalk.
This trail is great any time of day, but the best light will pierce through the trees during golden hour, morning or late afternoon. Either that or a nice, moody day would be great to shoot this, especially in the fall.
Don’t expect to have the Jesup Path all to yourself unless the weather isn’t ideal, and budget at least an hour or two walking along here because chances are you’ll be moving slow as you’re constantly distracting by the enchanting scenery. As you can see, it’s mesmerizing to walk beneath the white paper birch trees and get low to inspect the details all around you.
At the trailhead, by the nature center, there are lots of little pockets to explore. The wooden bridges are stunning, the trees in this area put on a show of their own, and there are interesting things you may stumble upon, like a teepee and a small hut.
Cadillac Mountain
The peak atop Cadillac Mountain sees some of the earliest light in the entire United States - some claim it is the first sunshine in the country, at least for a majority of the year throughout the winter. Regardless, it is the ideal place to start your day, watching the light come over the ocean’s horizon.
This peak is indeed the highest point along the North Atlantic seaboard and the geology is pretty breathtaking. Covered in an abundance of tree species and layered by volcanic remains, this is where to need to find yourself during sunrise or sunset as the light glows on the bay below.
The Harbor below also is seen from a great perspective up here - the large ships come and go looking tiny against the small isles in the bay.
Important to note, you should make sure to arrive early enough to find parking - it will be slammed most days, especially during peak season in the summer and fall, where you’re unlikely to find a place to park if you’re not arriving at least an hour prior to sunrise. Yes, it is that popular.
If you are one of the late arrivals and cannot find a legal place to park, a solid alternative is Blue Hill just down the road, or any other pull out that you’ll drive past on your way up from where you can park and walk toward the edges of the mountain. Be careful because it gets very cold and windy up here! But the views make up for it once the sun’s warmth takes the edge off.
THE BUBBLES AND CONNERS NUBBLE
As seen from across Jordan Pond, the Bubbles are very iconic. And they also are a worthy hike, but more on that below.
At the end of this page, check out the hike we created when we went, combining the North Bubble and Conners Nubble further north at a separate lake. The North Bubble loop felt a bit short and looked like it tended to get crowded due to the accessibility and popularity, so extending the journey and combining Conners Nubble was a perfect move - it was empty. If you have the legs to keep going, don’t sleep on Conners Nubble as truly offers another great vantage point overlooking Eagle Lake.
BASS HARBOR HEAD LIGHTHOUSE
Another postcard-worthy location in Acadia, the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse sits patiently on the southwestern tip of the island where it straddles the orange cliffs as it faces the entire Atlantic Ocean. The entire stony shore can be explored without limit, and the red light atop the lighthouse spins brighter as the sunlight fades below the cold waters.
Sunset from here is best, but it is one of the most crowded locations you’ll visit in the park. Get there early and anticipate a parking nightmare coming in and out on this narrow one-way road. Bring your snacks, camera, a blanket, and plenty of patience. Then, find your spot on the rocks (but beware of the waves breaking and splashing on you if you’re too close to the water) and relax watching the dying light close out a great day.
BEEHIVE TRAIL
There are a few tougher trails in Acadia that require actual climbing, the Beehive Trail and the Precipice Trail. And by climbing, I mean you’re using steel bars that have been drilled into the rocky cliffs to climb up to the peak. If you’re weary of heights, use your best judgment when you start the ascent because the wind can makes some parts a little daunting. This trail also gets very crowded so arrive early to avoid waiting or being rushed to climb up the rocky mountain face.
At around 2 miles, this isn’t a long trail, and I saw plenty of families with kids doing it, but if you’re there during the rush hours of the day, you will be moving slow, particularly on the climb up the exposed cliffs on the bars. Since it is a loop, I suggest climbing up the mountain on the way in as it makes it easier to use the bars and go with the flow of traffic.
The best views are on the way up and at the top of the hike looking out at Sand Beach in the distance. After that, you venture away from the coast into the thick forest and weave through a few small ponds before looping back to the trailhead.
SARGENT MOUNTAIN AND PENOBSCOT MOUNTAIN
Two great peaks with lots of wild landscapes between, Sargent Mountain and Penobscot Mountain are two mountains that can be combined into a great hike. If you park at Jordan Pond and follow the carriage road past the Jordan Cliffs Trail, you will find a small break in the path heading straight up, climbing some solid rocks. If you are weary of missing it, these are the coordinates off the carriage road: 44°19'17.3"N 68°15'38.0"W.
Once you traverse the rocky beginning, ducking and weaving past large rocks and low tree limbs, you’ll reach the bald face of Penobscot Mountain, hiking along the Jordan Ridge. At the peak of Penobscot Mountain, you can soak up the views of the Jordan Pond to the east, before heading down to connect to Sargent Mountain.
What’s great about this hike is how varied the scenery is throughout. One moment you’re climbing rocks, the next you are wide open on top of the entire park, then you’re weaving through thick forests. And at the end, you’re going up and down over scattered rocks along the edges of Jordan Pond. Along the way you’ll be treated to more solitude, great groves of red maples, and Deer Brook Bridge.
If you’re trying to get off the beaten path, this trail combo was relatively empty, and the joy of this trail truly was seeing how the landscape and trees changed every 30 minutes or so.
Ocean Path Hike: Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, Boulder Beach, and Otter Cliffs
We ran out of time and were never able to do the Ocean Path hike, but it looks like it would be best during morning from what I’ve read and how it seemed as we drove past it and saw it from above from the Beehive Trail. It is a there-and-back, so leave your car at the Ocean Path Trailhead in the large parking lot and walk along the ocean down to Otter Cliffs and back, ending at Sand Beach.
The Basics
FOLIAGE
Tracking foliage is a tricky and time-consuming business, but in the end, nature is unpredictable, and you must make a decision and stick with it because lodging books up quickly, especially if you’re looking for a good deal and a nice place to stay. If you plan to come to Acadia, prioritize fall - just do it, it’s breathtaking whether you nail that peak week or miss it by a few days.
Peak foliage generally is around mid-October in Acadia, and to get that perfect foliage weekend, there are several great resources to use, such as the Foliage Network, or the Smoky Mountains Tracker, but in this case, I stuck closely to Maine’s own Foliage Tracker. If you look at past years and try to make your best prediction of when to come, you’ll probably be okay. Acadia peaks at a different period than the rest of main and well-after the popular parts of Vermont, New Hampshire, and upstate New York.
LODGING, DRIVING, AND PARKING
Acadia is a decently sized park considering its small center is integrated with the rest of Mt. Desert Island and the towns within, but lodging still can be scarce if you wait too long, unless you’re willing to pay a premium on your stay. I would recommend booking something a few months in advance, as prices start to creep up and even hotels run out of space. The flights aren’t too bad if you book early.
If you’re in a larger group of people, or want to see the park from a more remote base away from the main towns, get yourself a BnB. We chose one near Otter Creek and the location was excellent - not too far from town for groceries and supplies, and a few minutes from several great hiking spots.
Crowd control is difficult with single-lane roads, heavy pedestrian traffic, and limited parking, so the rule of thumb in Acadia is “the earlier the better.” Parking lots start getting jammed up just after the sun comes up so plan around it. You’re here for a short period of time, so forgo that morning sleep, bring your snacks with you, and take breaks mid-day or picnic during long hikes when crowds are at their peak.
Finally, if you’re here for a fall trip, remember that places start closing beginning in mid- to late-October for the rest of the year because the temperature begins to drop radically. Make sure to check if that restaurant, hotel, or store is open before you commit to it. Most places will post their season-end date online, but if in doubt, give them a call.
My Trip
After living in D.C. for a few years and recognizing the charm of fall foliage in the city and the mountains of Virginia and West Virginia, I had longed to experience a real northeastern autumn. With a group of our closest friends, we decided to head north for a long weekend. Planning the trip around peak foliage by studying past year trends, we settled on mid-October 2018 as our sweet spot, hoping to see the park layered in warm colors, and it did not disappoint. We made it a few days after the reds peaked in a majority of the park, but it was still perfect.
Day 1 - Wednesday, Oct 17, 2018
A quick flight into Bangor, flying over sweeping mountains drenched in reds and oranges, we rented our car around noon and headed straight for the coast. The short 1.5 hour drive can be stretched if you give in to your urge to pull over, but the park awaits so save your daylight! As soon as we arrived, it was time for lobster rolls. We chose the The Travelin’ Lobster right at the entrance of Mt. Desert Island, but make sure to check whether the place you want to eat is still open as many places close for the winter.
With bellies full, we hopped onto Park Loop Road and worked our way to the Jesup Path for golden light and our first walk through Acadia’s woods. This was one of the highlights of the trip and a spot I would’ve liked to revisit during golden hour (maybe next time, because I am dying to get back here).
After the Jesup Path, we ventured into the nature center for a bit, and then made our way to our sunset spot on Cadillac Mountain. The sky got a bit dreary and our plan to catch the sunset was modified to the Blue Hill Overlook since the sky was looking bleak. We made our way past a few lakes on our way up the mountain, stopping for some great views, just as the rain started coming down. Fortunately, the rain was short-lived, and the sky reopened for some great moody skies towering over the park in every direction.
Day 2 - Thursday, Oct 18, 2018
One of the coldest mornings I’ve experienced came at the top of Cadillac Mountain for sunrise. Be weary of parking, though, as we arrived 30-45 minutes before sunrise and got one of the last parking spots available in a very large parking lot. Thankfully, we were able to get out onto the cliffs in time for the sun to rise and walked aimlessly around the mountain, watching the foliage bask in the light. The wind was unbearable at first despite the multiple layers and double gloves, but once the sun rose, it was manageable and we instantly forgot how cold it was.
Following sunrise and breakfast back at our house, it was time for our first long hike through the forest. We decided to create our own make-shift trail between Eagle Lake, Conners Nubble, and the North Bubble. We parked at the Bubbles Divide Trail parking area, hiked up to the North Bubble’s peak (forgoing the Bubble Rock Overlook as it was packed), and then hiked toward Conners Nubble via Eagle Lake along the ridges.
The great part about this trail was being able to have many different varieties of nature. A quick ascent got us one of the best views of the park, specifically Jordan Pond from the northern end. And just after that, you start winding through the forest under a canopy of color and light.
You can always stretch this trail out longer or make it shorter, but once you’re out there, you don’t want the trail to end. You may be tempted to spend loads of time exploring one certain part of the forest because it just calls to you.
On the way back, we walked along Eagle Lake until we got back to the trailhead.
Day 3 - Friday, Oct 19, 2018
The next morning we sunrised at Jordan Pond, hoping for still water and great reflections. The boulders protrude from Jordan Lake in the calm, cold morning air, and there were birds bathing all around us. We sat on the boulders as the light started, but it was mostly cloudy. After giving up on morning light, we then walked around the lake until it was time for breakfast.
This day’s hike was another make-shift combination of several trails. My take on hiking from Jordan Pond was to see several peaks and then end at the Jordan Pond House for an early dinner. We started from the Pond House parking lot and headed up to Penobscot Mountain. From there, we hiked to our second peak on top of Sargent Mountain. Then we finished by walking back to the Pond House via the western shore of Jordan Pond.
The reality of this place is that no matter where you go, as long as the company is just right, everything is pretty spectacular.
Day 4 - Saturday, Oct 20, 2018
The last day started slowly as we made our way to the crowded Beehive Trail, a short, but steep trail over the rocky ridges to amazing views and some secluded little lakes.
After the trail, we explored the western towns of Mt. Desert Island where we had a big goodbye meal, and planned to end at Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse.
